My kimono flower crest - October

how men can wear a kimono

Creator of this kimono webpage
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Men in kimono lined up

Kimono step by step guide, page 1: "socks to underwear"

Kimono step by step guide,
page 1: "socks to underwear"

(click here for "kimono to accesoires" portion of the guide)


When putting on a kimono, it would be handy to remember these few suggestions

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And now the step by step guide for wearing a Kimono

black and white men's kimono doll

Tabi / Socks


First , put on the socks (tabi) because it will be rather cumbersome to put them on later without messing up your kimono and obi.

The standard/traditional color for men is black or white, for the festival moments there is a wide arrangement of coloured and patterned tabi. You can take your chances with a pop tabi if you want to be real hip.
For weddings and official gatherings like a tea ceremony it seems to be white, definitely black for mourning. If by chance you want to walk on dusty roads visiting shrines you could consider wearing black, dirt is less visible on black socks than on white socks.

Many different quality versions and material use of tabi are available, please choose carefully.

Tabi for casual - black tabi Black tabi
white tabi White tabi
Summer festival tabi Festival tabi
Pop Tabi for festivals Pop tabi
Himo tabi String tabi


Some quick extra information:
Here is a good method to determine your Japanese tabi/shoe size:
No ruler at hand and no time, then check out the tabi/shoe size chart below.

Shoe/Tabi size chart (for men!)

JapaneseUSUKEU   JapaneseUSUKEU
235 43727.59.5 8.542.5
23.55.5 4.537.52810 943
246 53828.510.59.544
24.56.5 5.538.572911 1044.5
257 639.529.511.510.545
25.57.5 6.5403012 1145.5
268 740.53113 1246.5
26.58.5 7.541.53214 1348
279 842
JapaneseUSUKEU
235 437
23.55.5 4.537.5
246 538
24.56.5 5.538.57
257 639.5
25.57.5 6.540
268 740.5
26.58.5 7.541.5
279 842
27.59.5 8.542.5
2810 943
28.510.59.544
2911 1044.5
29.511.510.545
3012 1145.5
3113 1246.5
3214 1348

Putting on a tabi isn't that hard but as explained below there is a standard procedure for how to put them on.
Putting on tabi, preparing Wrap half of the tabi to the front so you get an easy way in for your feet.
Putting on tabi, sliding on Put a foot into the tabi and pull so that the toes go firmly to the tip.
Putting on tabi, pulling to heel Pull slowly and firmly pulling the wrapped part back to the heel.
Putting on tabi, closing clamps Pull a little bit up and fasten the clasps from the bottom up.
Putting on tabi, preparing Wrap half of the tabi to the front so you get an easy way in for your feet.
Putting on tabi, sliding on Put a foot into the tabi and pull so that the toes go firmly to the tip.
Putting on tabi, pulling to heel Pull slowly and firmly pulling the wrapped part back to the heel.
Putting on tabi, closing clamps Pull a little bit up and fasten the clasps from the bottom up.

The original Japanese page where above image-set came from can be found at Rakuten Kimono Cafe


pagebreak flowing line black and white men's kimono doll

Underwear


There are different kinds of kimono underwear too choose from. You can wear a hada-juban or a separate undergarment for the upper body (han-juban) and a (momohiki, fundoshi, susoyoke or suteteko) for the lower body.
A t-shirt with a V-shape neck and Long Johns or shorts can be used as a substitute.

What underwear you choose is a matter of personal taste, comfort and availability of the item in question but whatever you choose, try to make the contact of your skin with the outer kimono or naga-juban as little as possible to prevent sweat reaching the (silk) garments.

Hadajuban

Hadajuban

hanjuban

Han-juban with susoyoke

hanjuban with colored necks

Han-juban t-shirt

V-Shaped neck t-shirt

V-Shaped neck t-shirt

momohiki

Momohiki

fundoshi

Fundoshi

suteteko

Suteteko

Hadajuban

Hadajuban

hanjuban

Han-juban with susoyoke

hanjuban with colored necks

Han-juban t-shirt

V-Shaped neck t-shirt

V-Shaped neck t-shirt

momohiki

Momohiki

fundoshi

Fundoshi

suteteko

Suteteko

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Fundoshi (for the hardcore)


(Optional) How to put on a fundoshi instead of briefs, for the real hardcore wearer.

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Susoyoke


One of the options for long underwear is a susoyoke, a wrap-around half slip, from a single piece of cloth with ties at the waist.
If you are not in the possession of a susoyoke then a long john or other long underwear is a logical alternative. Our legs also sweat, we don't want that to be transferred to the inner kimono/nagajuban.
Personally I find this option very comfortable and very easy to make yourself (made mine from bamboo cloth)

Putting on a susoyoke 1
Putting on a susoyoke 2
Putting on a susoyoke 3
Putting on a susoyoke 4
Putting on a susoyoke 5
Putting on a susoyoke 6
Putting on a susoyoke 1
Putting on a susoyoke 2
Putting on a susoyoke 3
Putting on a susoyoke 4
Putting on a susoyoke 5
Putting on a susoyoke 6

The original Japanese page where these images came from can be found at 男のきもの大全

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Momohiki


Another option for long underwear is a momohiki (light trousers). Haven't had the pleasure of trying this on yet and not much information found.

Click on the images for a larger version.

How to put on a momo hiki How to put on a momo hiki

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Padding


Make that body a cylindrical shape, so it is said to women wearing a kimono, for men the 'rules' are a bit different.

Men’s obi are tied lower on the waist, and are encouraged to create a sort of 'pot belly' shape. If no natural belly shape is present then by wearing a special yukata pad or towel for that rounder belly shape.
Personally i have never used a towel, not even during the wedding or photo shoots. Probably at those times my belly was big enough to compensate for the lack of a towel -_-"
Wrapping a towel around the upper part of the pelvis is called "hasei o suru", 補正をする.
I think that it is a particularly nice point for men that the stomach which becomes a weak point in western clothes becomes a big merit in kimono.

Positioning kimono towel


The place of the towel


Kimono obi down


The obi is pulled down in front
and up in the back

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Nagajuban (under kimono)


Next put on the naga-juban (under kimono) which is a kind of wafuku undergarment worn with kimonos under the main outer garment. These garments can have wonderful sceneries on the back though please do not show the naga-juban in public.
Wrap the naga-juban left over right and use a ribbon (Koshi-himo) to tie the naga-juban.

Like the kimono you also wrap the nagajuban always with the left side over the right.

Nagajuban blue mountain


Nagajuban with scenery

Nagajuban white


Plain white nagajuban

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Han-Eri


Han-eri, a long piece of cloth at the neck to avoid getting the juban/underkimono collar dirty.
You will notice that most of the second hand/vintage juban's that are for sale there is a han-eri attached at the neck part. A Han-eri can be loosely attached to the collar to change color composition of the kimono outfit and also makes washing easier when the hada-juban is made of silk by making it possible to wash the Han-eri. A Han-eri is put over the original neck collar and replacing it, a date-eri (see below) adds an extra collar so you can omit the juban.

Blue haneri with fish
Grey haneri with pattern
Plain haneri
plain haneri in wrapping

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Eri-pin


Eri-Pin,a presumable easy way to temporarily and quickly attach an han-eri.
On a hot day when you don't feel like it or just haven't got the time to sew on a haneri on your nagajuban, enter the eri pin. A handy contraption to clip the haneri or dateeri to your garment. Fast, cheap and easy.

putting on an han-eri step 1 putting on an han-eri step 2 putting on an han-eri step 3 putting on an han-eri step 4 putting on an han-eri step 5 Attaching a eri pin

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Date-Eri


Date-eri, using this fake collar attached to the kimono to avoid wearing a juban/underwear during the hot summer days.

Date-eri yellow Several colours date-eri
Date-eri (also known as Eri Sugata) is a detachable collar matching the obi or accessories. It gives the impression that the kimono consists of several layers, although the extra fake layer rarely appears at the sleeve openings or hem of the kimono. Particularly in summer, layers of kimono can be very hot; as the edge of the collar of the naga-juban can be seen at the edge of the outer kimono's collar; a date-eri stitched to the collar of the outer kimono gives the impression of a naga-juban beneath, allowing the wearer to omit the naga-juban, in order to stay cooler.

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Eri-dome


Eri-dome, keeping your neck part a perfect fit.
Does the gap at your neck of your kimono keeps getting wider each time ?
Then an eridome is the solution. This a metal S-shaped collar clip to hold the upper eri in place on both nagajuban and kimono.

Kimono neck in bad shape Arrow right Eri-dome Arrow right Kimono neck in good shape

Click on below images to get a somewhat better view of the instructions.
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome
How to put on a eri-dome



click here for page 2 of the step by step guide